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About Split Keyboards - Build Guide
Last review: 2024-11-04

Rotary encoders

Rotary encoders allow for both rotation as well as push actions.
This step is optional.

You should perform this step if you are going to use one or more rotary encoders. If not, you can go to the next step using the button below.

Take care: If you skip this step, you cannot easily add the parts of this step later. You may need to desolder parts.

Batteries

Batteries are used to power a wireless controller.

Switches

The parts that make a mechanical keyboard mechanical.

A rotary encoder, allen key and an encoder knob

A rotary encoder, allen key and an encoder knob.

Which knob should I get? For the encoders we sell at splitkb.com, you’ll require knobs with a 6mm wide shaft (or slightly wider), with a set screw. Friction-fit knobs may not work with our D-shaft encoders. The overall diameter of the knob should not exceed 19mm.

If you look at the bottom of the PCBs, you’ll see a few spots marked with white circles with a number in it. On many kits, you’ll see one or more spots marked with (1). Some kits may also have a (2) or even a (3).

An encoder footprint, overlapped with a switch footprint

An encoder footprint, overlapped with a switch footprint.

These marked spots are spots where you can choose to install an encoder. Spots that share the same number, also share the encoder’s data pins, so it’s recommended to only install a single encoder per number - encoders sharing the same number might not work, or might do the same thing, which isn’t very helpful.

If your keyboard kit only has (1)s, that means your keyboard supports up to one encoder per half. If it also has (2)s, that means it supports up to two encoders per half, et cetera. If you’d like to install your encoder on a (2) position, you won’t need to also install one on a (1) position: you’re free to use as many or as few encoders as the keyboard supports.

Oop, it's all hotswap sockets! Just to make sure, you can’t install an encoder on a spot where you’ve already put a hotswap socket. Remove it from a spot if you’ve previously soldered a socket there. Otherwise, you risk pushing the socket out of the PCB, possibly damaging both the socket and your keyboard.

To install an encoder, first insert the side with the three little legs partly into their pads on the PCB. Then turn the encoder toward the remaining two pads and insert them partly as well. Lastly, press the encoder down, pressing the side legs into their corresponding holes. This may require a bit of force, though you shouldn’t have to overdo it.

A soldered encoder, looking at the bottom side of the keyboard. Some pads may overlap with switch holes, but you'll still be able to form a good joint

A soldered encoder, looking at the bottom side of the keyboard. Some pads may overlap with switch holes, but you'll still be able to form a good joint.

A soldered encoder, looking at the top side of the keyboard

A soldered encoder, looking at the top side of the keyboard.

Take it for a spin. Take note of the number or numbers you’ve installed your encoders on. Each encoder number corresponds with a definition of it in the firmware, and when changing the keycodes you’ll want to adjust the correct one to see the changes you’ve made.

If your keyboard supports a single one encoder per half, then there's nothing to remember: there'll only be configuration for a single encoder.

Batteries

Batteries are used to power a wireless controller.

Switches

The parts that make a mechanical keyboard mechanical.

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