Not using per-key RGB? Skip ahead to RGB Underglow.
Per-key RGB LEDs are placed near every switch, marked by SW followed by a number, like SW12. They are optional, you only need to do this step if you’ve purchased per-key RGB LEDs with your kit.
The LEDs can be oriented in two ways. It is absolutely crucial that you get the orientation right. Familiarize yourself with the orientation markers on both the LED and the PCB: The LED will have a single angled corner, the PCB will have a dot marking one pin.
Once you have figured out the orientation, solder a little bit of tin to the first pad. This will make soldering the other pins easier.
Place the LED on top of the pads. Make sure the orientation is correct.
Solder the first pin, making sure that the other pins are aligned properly. While heating the pin with your soldering iron, use a pair of tweezers to align it.
Heat sensitive. Do not spend too long trying to get it oriented perfectly. The LED will break when it gets too hot. When in doubt, move on to the next LED and come back to this one later.
Now solder the rest of the pins.
Remember, heat sensitive. Solder only one pad per LED and move onto the next LED to allow them to cool down from soldering, and come back for the next pad once you have done all other LEDs.
Flip the board over and double-check that you soldered all LEDs in the right orientation.
If they are all oriented correctly, you are done with the per-key RGB backlight.
Per-key RGB, but no underglow?
Would you like to use per-key RGB, but skip the underglow? Then you’ll want to solder the jumper JP2 to bypass the underglow RGB LEDs.